A crash course in understanding what makes your hair tick
You know your zodiac sign, your Enneagram number, and maybe even which Friends character you are (Monica gang, where you at?). But when it comes to your hair, do you know your type? Understanding your hair type is like unlocking the cheat code to better products, easier styling, and fewer bad hair days.
The thing is, not knowing your hair type can lead to a frustrating cycle of trial and error. The wrong products will weigh your hair down, dry it out, or leave you with that dreaded poof. The right products? Total game-changer.
So, if you’ve ever wondered “What type is my hair?” or stared at your strands trying to decode their mysteries, you’re in the right place. We’re breaking down the hair type chart, sharing tips to figure out your type, and offering practical advice for every category.
What is the hair type chart?
The hair type chart is the ultimate guide to understanding your hair’s natural behavior. Created by celebrity hairstylist Andre Walker (Oprah’s go-to hair guru), this system became popular in the 1990s as a way to categorize hair types and help people choose the right products and styling techniques. Since then, it’s become a go-to tool for hairstylists, beauty brands, and anyone trying to crack the code of their hair.
The chart has four main categories:
Type 1: Straight Hair (1A, 1B, 1C)
Straight with varying levels of thickness and texture.
Type 2: Wavy hair (2A, 2B, 2C)
Loose S-shaped waves with increasing definition.
Type 3: Curly hair (3A, 3B, 3C)
Defined curls ranging from loose loops to tighter spirals.
Type 4: Coily/kinky hair (4A, 4B, 4C)
Tight coils with textures that range from soft and springy to densely packed.
Each category is further divided into subtypes that reflect specific patterns, strand thickness, and density. It’s all about celebrating the diversity of hair and understanding its unique quirks.
Why it matters
Knowing your hair type isn’t just trivia—it can totally transform your hair care routine. The chart helps you figure out what your hair needs most, from moisturizing products for coily textures to lightweight styling creams for fine, wavy strands. It also simplifies your styling decisions, ensuring your hair stays healthy and happy without endless trial and error.
How to know what type of hair you have
Figuring out your hair type is easier than you think—it just takes a little observation and a few simple tests. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you decode your hair’s unique characteristics.
Step 1: Observe your natural pattern
After washing your hair, skip the heat tools and let it air-dry. Your natural hair pattern will reveal its texture:
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Straight (type 1): Hair dries with no bends or waves. Wavy (type 2): Hair forms soft S-shaped curves. Curly (type 3): Defined loops or spirals form as it dries. Coily (type 4): Tight coils or zigzag patterns appear, often densely packed. |
Resist the urge to use products during this step—keep it natural to get the clearest picture.
Step 2: Assess thickness and density
These two factors help determine how much product your hair needs and how well it holds styles:
Thickness (strand level):
Take a single strand and roll it between your fingers.
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Fine: Barely feels like anything. Medium: Feels like sewing thread. Coarse: Feels thick or wiry. |
Density (overall volume)
Look at your scalp in the mirror.
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Thin: Scalp is easy to see. Medium: Scalp is visible in some areas. Thick: Scalp is barely visible. |
Step 3: Check for porosity
Porosity measures how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture. Fill a bowl with water and drop a clean, dry strand of hair into it.
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High porosity: Hair sinks quickly (prone to dryness). Medium porosity: Hair floats in the middle (balanced). Low porosity: Hair floats on top (needs lightweight, hydrating products). |
Step 4: Test elasticity
Elasticity reveals your hair’s strength and health. Take a wet strand of hair and gently stretch it.
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Healthy hair: Stretches slightly and returns to its original length. Low elasticity: Snaps easily (may need protein treatments). |
By combining these observations, you’ll get a full picture of your hair type—and the insight to treat it right!
Breaking down the hair type chart
As we’ve covered, knowing your hair type = the insider secret to better hair days. Each type has its quirks, challenges, and endless potential when cared for correctly. Here’s how to understand what’s going on with your hair and give it exactly what it needs.
Type 1: Straight hair
Straight hair is sleek and naturally shiny but often struggles with oiliness and flatness. It’s the type that’s always slipping out of bobby pins.
1A: Think glass-straight and fine—so fine it doesn’t hold a curl even if your life depended on it.
Try this → Dry shampoo is your BFF. Use it to add texture and absorb oil before it takes over.
1B: Slightly thicker and a bit more body, like the cousin who always looks put-together.
Try this → Texturizing sprays can help create effortless volume and grit.
1C: Coarser, with a slight wave that’s too straight to be “wavy” but too stubborn to stay sleek.
Try this → Lightweight leave-ins and oils will tame the frizz without turning your hair into a grease trap.
Type 2: Wavy hair
Wavy hair lives in the best of both worlds: it’s got movement and texture but doesn’t need hours of maintenance. Its main struggle? Frizz can hijack your look.
2A: Subtle waves, like the kind you’d get from wearing your hair in a loose braid overnight.
Try this → Sea salt sprays or light mousses can bring out those waves without weighing them down.
2B: More defined S-waves, but often paired with frizz at the roots.
Try this → Curl creams or anti-frizz serums can smooth the chaos and define the waves.
2C: Thick, almost-curly waves with a mind of their own.
Try this → Heavier moisturizers and leave-ins help tame frizz and keep the texture on point.
Type 3: Curly hair
Curly hair is the queen of bounce and definition when hydrated, but it’s also thirsty—always thirsty. It thrives with the right care but rebels if neglected.
3A: Loose, shiny curls that scream “effortless,” even if it’s not.
Try this → Use a gel or mousse to keep those curls light and defined without crunchiness.
3B: Tighter, bouncier spirals with lots of volume.
Try this → Layer a leave-in conditioner with a curl cream to lock in moisture and control frizz.
3C: Corkscrew curls that bring all the volume and texture.
Try this → Deep condition regularly and don’t skimp on rich moisturizers—these curls need love.
Type 4: Coily/kinky hair
Coily hair is a real showstopper: dense, voluminous, and stunning when cared for. But it’s delicate, so handle with care and all the moisture.
4A: Springy coils that have a noticeable curl pattern.
Try this → Hydrate with light creams and oils to keep coils defined and juicy.
4B: Z-shaped coils that bend rather than curve.
Try this → Protective styles like twists or braids, combined with rich butters, can prevent breakage and dryness.
4C: Tightest coils with little visible curl definition.
Try this → Focus on deep conditioning, layering hydrating products, and gentle detangling to protect these beautiful strands.
Your hair type is more than just a label; it’s a blueprint to bring out the best in your texture. Whether you’re working with silky straight strands or dense coils, the key is to listen to what your hair needs and give it the TLC it deserves.
Celebrate your hair type and care for it like a pro
Figuring out your hair type means finally figuring out what makes your hair live its best life. Straight, wavy, curly, or coily—it’s all beautiful, and now you’ve got the tools to care for it the way it deserves. No more guessing games or bad product matches, just a routine that works for your hair.
Ready to level up even more? Check out Lauren Ashtyn’s curated hair care line and connect with experts who get it. Because when your hair feels good, you feel unstoppable.
